TLDR: Lisbon eats incredibly well. Headline picks: Belcanto (José Avillez, 2 Michelin stars, €245 tasting menu), Cervejaria Ramiro (the famous shellfish house, €40-€80), Pap’Açorda at Time Out Market (Bairro Alto classic relocated), A Cevicheria in Príncipe Real (octopus on the ceiling), and Cantinho do Avillez in Chiado (José Avillez again, €40-€60). For neighbourhood Portuguese near Casa Almada try Cantinho do Aziz or Ti Natércia.
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Insider tip from Casa Almada
Walk 4 minutes from Casa Almada down Rua de São Tomé to Ti Natércia. The dining room has 18 seats, the menu is whatever the boats brought in that morning, and Natércia herself runs the floor in her seventies. €18-€25 a head, no website, walk in for lunch by 12.30pm or book by phone for dinner. The grilled sea bass is the best in the Old Town.
Lisbon restaurants reward visitors who slow down and trust the neighbourhoods. The food scene has gone from quietly excellent to internationally respected over the last decade, but the soul is still in the small family-run tascas where the menu is hand-written, the wine list is one bottle of Vinho Verde, and the bacalhau à brás is exactly the same as it was in 1985.
Casa Almada sits in the Old Town near the Sé Cathedral, which means a dozen genuine local kitchens are within a 5 minute walk. This is the local guide to where to eat well in Lisbon — both the headline names and the neighbourhood spots that no cruise-ship tour ever finds.
Headline names — Belcanto, Ramiro, Pap’Açorda
Belcanto on Largo de São Carlos in Chiado is José Avillez’s flagship, awarded its second Michelin star in 2014. The 12-course tasting menu runs €245 per person plus drinks, with vegetarian and pescatarian options. Open Tuesday-Saturday 12.30-3pm and 7-11pm. Book 6-8 weeks ahead.
Cervejaria Ramiro on Avenida Almirante Reis is the famous old-school shellfish house — clams, prawns, lobsters, gooseneck barnacles served by the kilo with a glass of beer or vinho verde. €40-€80 per head depending on what you order. Open Tuesday-Sunday 12pm-12.30am. No bookings, walk in by 7.15pm or 9.30pm to avoid the queue.
Pap’Açorda at the Time Out Market is the original Bairro Alto restaurant relocated. Classic Portuguese cooking — bacalhau à brás, açorda de marisco (the famous bread-and-shellfish stew), grilled meats. €25-€40 per head. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
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Modern Portuguese — Cantinho do Avillez, A Cevicheria, Tapisco
Cantinho do Avillez on Rua dos Duques de Bragança in Chiado is José Avillez’s casual sister to Belcanto. Smart, relaxed, with a focus on creative Portuguese petiscos and seafood. €40-€60 per head with wine. Open daily.
A Cevicheria on Rua Dom Pedro V in Príncipe Real is chef Kiko Martins’ Peruvian-Portuguese fusion. Famous for the giant fake octopus hanging from the ceiling and the standout cevichino plates. €30-€45 per head. No bookings, walk in for late lunch or 9pm dinner.
Tapisco on Rua Dom Pedro V is by Henrique Sá Pessoa, also Príncipe Real. Tapas-meets-petiscos format — small plates from both Iberian traditions, designed to share, with strong sherry and Vinho Verde lists. €25-€40 per head. The grilled octopus and the cured tuna are the standout orders.
Neighbourhood Old Town near Casa Almada
Cantinho do Aziz on Rua de São Lourenço is a Mozambican-Portuguese family restaurant 5 minutes from Casa Almada. Open since 1957. The prawn xacuti curry, the chicken peri-peri, and the homemade samosas are all amazing. €15-€25 per head. Open Wednesday-Monday, closed Tuesdays.
Ti Natércia on Rua de São Tomé is the 18-seat tasca run by Natércia herself in her seventies. Whatever the boats brought in. Grilled fish, octopus rice, vinho verde from a jug. €18-€25 per head. 4 minutes’ walk from Casa Almada, no website, book by phone for dinner or walk in for lunch.
Faz Frio on Rua Dom Pedro V (Príncipe Real, 18 minutes from Casa Almada) is one of the oldest tascas in the city, recently restored with the original 1879 wooden booths intact. Classic Portuguese cooking, €30-€45 per head. The Sunday roast piglet is the order.
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Bacalhau, francesinha and the rest you should try
For traditional bacalhau (salt cod) cooked thirty different ways, Casa do Alentejo on Rua das Portas de Santo Antão is the right destination. Set in a Moorish-revival 17th-century palace with painted ceilings, the menu runs the Alentejo classics. €25-€40 per head.
For seafood by weight beyond Cervejaria Ramiro, try Cervejaria Trindade on Rua Nova da Trindade in Chiado — the oldest beer hall in Lisbon, 1836, with the original azulejo panels intact. Less famous than Ramiro, half the price, similar quality. €25-€40 per head.
Sardinhas assadas (grilled sardines) are the summer Lisbon plate — peak season is May to August around the São João and Santo António festivals. Any neighbourhood tasca with a charcoal grill outside in June is doing them. €8-€12 a plate of six. Eat them on charred bread with roasted peppers and a glass of red Alentejo.
- Belcanto: Largo de São Carlos. 2 Michelin stars. €245 tasting menu. Book 6-8 weeks ahead.
- Cervejaria Ramiro: Av. Almirante Reis. €40-€80 shellfish. No bookings, walk in 7.15pm or 9.30pm.
- Pap’Açorda: Time Out Market. €25-€40. Walk-in.
- Cantinho do Avillez: Rua dos Duques de Bragança, Chiado. €40-€60. Daily.
- A Cevicheria: Rua Dom Pedro V, Príncipe Real. €30-€45. No bookings.
- Tapisco: Rua Dom Pedro V, Príncipe Real. €25-€40 small plates.
- Cantinho do Aziz: Rua de São Lourenço. Mozambican-Portuguese. €15-€25. 5 min from Casa Almada.
- Ti Natércia: Rua de São Tomé. 18 seats. €18-€25. 4 min from Casa Almada.
- Casa do Alentejo: Rua das Portas de Santo Antão. Moorish-revival palace. €25-€40.
- Cervejaria Trindade: Chiado, 1836 beer hall. €25-€40.
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220 m² of beautifully restored space across 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, sleeping up to 9 guests plus 2 infants. Three super king beds that split into singles, blackout blinds throughout, original art by Lisbon artists, Egyptian cotton linens, Rituals products, and a stunning rooftop terrace with panoramic city views. Tram 28 at the bottom of the street, Sé Cathedral around the corner, Castelo de São Jorge ten minutes on foot. A far cry from the soulless chain hotels of yesterday.
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Frequently asked questions
What is the best restaurant in Lisbon?
Subjective — but Belcanto by José Avillez at Largo de São Carlos in Chiado holds two Michelin stars and is the consistent local pick for the special-occasion meal at €245 per person. For shellfish, Cervejaria Ramiro on Avenida Almirante Reis. For neighbourhood Portuguese near Casa Almada, Cantinho do Aziz on Rua de São Lourenço.
Do you need to book restaurants in Lisbon in advance?
Belcanto needs 6-8 weeks. Cantinho do Avillez and Pap’Açorda need 24-48 hours. Cervejaria Ramiro and A Cevicheria are walk-in only — arrive at 7.15pm or 9.30pm to avoid the queue. Neighbourhood tascas like Ti Natércia and Cantinho do Aziz take walk-ins for lunch and phone bookings for dinner.
How much does dinner in Lisbon cost?
Casual neighbourhood Portuguese €15-€25 per head with wine. Mid-range modern Portuguese (Cantinho do Avillez, Tapisco) €40-€60. Cervejaria Ramiro shellfish €40-€80. Fine dining at Belcanto €245 plus drinks. Lunch is significantly cheaper — most restaurants serve a 2-course set lunch (menu do dia) for €10-€15.
What is the most famous Lisbon dish?
Bacalhau (salt cod) cooked in any of the famous 365 ways, sardinhas assadas (grilled sardines, peak May-August), pastéis de bacalhau (cod fritters), pastel de nata (custard tart), and ginjinha (cherry liqueur). The pastel de nata is probably the international flagship.
Are there vegetarian or vegan restaurants in Lisbon?
Yes. Príncipe Real has the densest cluster — Ao 26 Vegan Food Project on Rua Vítor Cordon, The Food Temple in Mouraria, and Jardim das Cerejas in Chiado. Most modern Portuguese restaurants (Tapisco, Cantinho do Avillez, A Cevicheria) also have strong vegetarian options.
If you are planning your stay around this, take a look at the rest of our Lisbon travel blog for itineraries, restaurants and seasonal tips.